Update

Some great things about Bamiyan: it’s stunningly beautiful; there are glaciers and new snow in the mountains; there is no shortage of donkeys (one braying now); people catch fish from the creeks with the most basic stick, line, and hook set-up; the only election-related violence was a group of women at a polling station who, in their eagerness to vote, broke down the gate and “trampled” an elections observer before the polls opened; we can go on great hikes (soon skiing) from our house; we have two chickens (recently got the first egg!); we can walk to work; we have naan and chai every day; and in the right light, some of the plants, birds, butterflies, trees, wheat and potato fields, mountains, and streams remind us of Montana.

It’s getting cold here now, nights down to 13F (-11C). We heat our house by burning wood and coal in bukaris, cylindrical tin tanks with a mud seal around the top (see photo). To heat water, there’s a second tin cylinder that sits atop the first that we fill with water. The fire below, and the stovepipe running through, heats water pretty quickly. We also have a greenhouse set up on the south side of the house, which is where all the windows are (Bamiyan people know how to plan for the cold). In full sun, which is most days, it gets downright tropical in there. We’ve had a few snowstorms and can’t wait for a few more, ski season is right around the corner.

I recently completed a consultancy with the Aga Khan Foundation and just started work with UNEP (UN Environment Program). My new work involves planning and research in preparation for the proposed Shah Foladi protected area. This area is proposed as a category 5 protected area which means a place dedicated to safeguarding ongoing traditional use (grazing, plant harvesting for fuel, food, and medicine) in a sustainable manner. My new job means that instead of walking to work through alleyways of leaking latrines, I walk through recently harvested wheat and potato fields, some now greening with winter wheat and all surrounded by impressive mountains. Gorgeous.

We continue to meet good people and are regularly awed at the inspiration and heartbreak. Part of it is our eyes are more open in a new place but it's also the hard lives people live here and the ability of people in tough situations to smile. Recently we brought food to a colleague whose mother had died, the pain in their house was so strong, sobbing, somber faces, and people trying to comfort each other. And last week I had lunch with another colleague whose sister had the chance to study for a year in the US because her mother stood up to her uncles that didn't want her to go.

A few photos here include: the Buddhas and views from the cliffs, Chad’s all staff volleyball game in our front yard (greenhouse in background, the women and I were appropriately watching), hiking around Bamiyan, donkey’s carrying shrubs out of the mountains for fuel, wheat and potato harvest, and our work.

Next week we’re taking a holiday during the Muslim Eid and the American Thanksgiving to… Turkey. ;) We’re going to explore Istanbul and hike along the Mediterranean coast for a few days all the while feeling thankful for having all of you in our lives. Best of wishes and happy Thanksgiving.